1. One of the best ways to save on money while selling several hundred or several thousand coins a week is to buy bubble mailers online. They cost a dollar to over a dollar each in the post office, depending on the size of the mailer. What I did was search the internet for these bubble mailers so you don’t have to waste your time looking for them. I get them as cheap as.09¢ each! How’s that for savings. Just go to Royal Mailers and put “coinprofits” in the Coupon Code to get your discounts. You can mix and match or just buy one size. They are by far the cheapest on the internet.
2. When gold is sky high, never buy common gold coins. Their values are based on gold spot. So their book values go up as gold goes up. Once gold goes down, they quickly lose their value.
3. When gold is down, always buy legal tender gold coins instead of bullion gold bars or bullion gold 파일코인. Legal tender gold coins can appreciate in value faster then gold spot, whereas bullion gold only follows the value of gold.
4. When buying bullion gold, always buy the smallest increment you can buy. These little bars have the highest mark up compared to gold spot. Just make sure it’s.999 fine gold or better.
5. When buying copper coinage, always buy “red” specimens. Copper collectors go crazy for red copper coins. This is the reason why they always go up in value faster then “brown” and “red-brown” coins. MAKE SURE YOU PROTECT THEM FROM TARNISH IF YOU BUY THEM UNSLABBED!!
6. All slabs can state that a copper coin is “red-brown”. But this is always an “iffy” attribute. Sometimes it looks kind of reddish and sometimes it looks completely brown. So if you have a choice, always select a “redder” specimen. I have seen a lot of “brown” coins labeled “red-brown” so look carefully before you buy.
7. Always check a copper coin to see if it’s actually red if it is labeled “red.” Sometimes they are not red at all. Be careful of coins graded by ANACS. Some copper coins in ANACS slabs are labeled “red” even though they are really only “red-brown.”
8. Never buy unslabbed toned coins if you don’t know what’s real toning and what’s fake toning. You can easily be fooled because there are so many different ways to tone a coin. A lot of scammers artificially tone coins and grade them in bogus grading companies. So you should always only buy rainbow toned coins from PCGS, NGC, ANACS, or ICG.
9. Toned coins are nice. But, some coins have toning that doesn’t look very nice. I would never buy a coin that has blackened toning. After this blackening, you barely see the coin. So when buying toned coins, never buy coins that are too darkly toned or too lightly toned. Always choose coins with strong, bright, vibrant colors.
10. Some coins have a spot here and there, and some coins are completely spotless. It is in your best interest to buy completely “white” coins. These are easier to sell because a lot of collectors want their coins virtually spotless. This is a must for some of the newer coins such as Silver Eagles.
11. Proof coins are always grade sensitive. They tend to lose a lot of their value if they are not proof 69 or better. It’s better to buy a raw specimen then a coin graded proof 68. It’s not worth it to buy a coin graded proof 68 because proof coins usually average proof 69+. So you end up paying a premium because it is graded, but you get nothing in return. You even lose the box and COA. You could have paid less for an ungraded specimen that will most likely turn out to be a proof 69 or higher.
12. Be careful of common date coins with high grades from BS grading companies. (A lot of them are just cheap cases instead of slabs). A lot of common dates are worth a lot of money in high grades because they are so hard to find in those grades. So, what BS grading companies do is find a good looking common date and grade them MS69’s and MS70’s. In reality, most of them are no where near MS65. In most cases, those grades are non existent for that particular coin. You could have easily bought the same coin in the same grade or higher for just a couple of dollars. Your best bet is to stay away from unfamiliar grading companies. You are paying a premium for nothing.
13. If a lower grade and the next grade up of a particular coin is very close in book value, always buy the higher grade. If it’s a key date or semi key date, the higher grade is usually the better investment. Key dates always go up in value. But, the higher grades will most likely appreciate faster.
14. Only buy coins from PCGS, NGC, and ANACS. All other grading companies usually over grade the coins. Some BS grading companies even grade counterfeit coins so be careful!
15. Never buy “fake” coins. Fake coins are coins that are not made by the U.S. Mint. A lot of them are inferior in quality and mass produced. Some aren’t even 100% silver or gold. A lot of these “collector coins” are made with a cheap core, then either gold plated or silver plated. The only non U.S. Mint coins worth buying are gold and silver bullion coins that are.999 pure or better.
16. Never buy cleaned coins, artificially toned coins, environmentally damaged coins, scratched coins, coins with corrosion, altered coins, gold plated coins, copper plated coins, painted coins, rusty coins, replated coins, pitted coins, coins certified by BS grading companies, doctored coins, bent coins, whizzed coins, holed coins, filler coins, or culls. Always buy problem free coins because they are easier to sell, worth more, and can still go up in value. Problem coins have a very hard time going up in value.
17. Never sell major or dramatic error slab coins if it’s not noted on the slab. You will not get fair market value if you sell it as is. Always get it reslabbed.
18. When there are two or more varieties of the same coin, always buy the rarer variety no matter how small the difference in mintage. The rarer variety usually becomes the more popular variety. This will equate to being worth more in the long run. They’re easier to sell and usually go up in value faster then the more populous varieties.
19. Never buy BU rolls that have been placed in plastic shot gun tubes. These rolls can easily be searched. And to be honest, they have probably been cherry picked already.
20. Never buy single BU coins from original rolls. Especially from dutch auctions. They are all searched, they could be damaged from the opening of the roll, they could have tarnished if the seller is selling left overs, and they cannot guarantee you a high grade. All the “choice” specimens would have been cherry picked already. If the roll did not sell out, the seller would obviously give you the lesser desirable specimens.
21. If you buy bags or rolls from the U.S. Mint, you should never open them right away. If you hear about an error within that series, your bag/roll could easily go up in value because it is “unopened.” If an error was reported for that particular year, you can easily double or triple your money if your bag/roll was unopened.
22. Always buy everything the U.S. Mint has for sale. There’s always a coin or set that does “spectacular.” Don’t wait to get it on eBay.
23. If there is a limited edition coin or set of coins, I always buy as many as I can. They always go up in value the minute they sell out. Don’t wait to get them on eBay. Usually, the faster they sell out, the faster the coin explodes in value. Don’t want to get it on eBay.
24. Never go crazy over a proof or mint set because of one coin. Why don’t you just buy that one coin? That’s the only coin that’s worth a premium anyways. Only go crazy for a set if the whole set was rare and valuable.